A warning to those looking to mod their motorized bicycles:

Most, if not all, of the hacks and mods featured on this site were made by individual hobbyists. If you are new to working with 2-stroke bicycle engines, please by aware that there's a possibility that a mod featured on this site could seriously damage your engine. Please don't try any mod from this or any other site unless you fully understand what you are doing. The owner of this blog will not be held responsible for both material and bodily damage caused by performing a modification featured on this blog. Also remember that opening up your engine may void your warranty!

Building Tips

So you want to build a motorized bicycle?  Well, clearly you are a smart individual because you have come to the right place.  It takes some intelligence to not rely on the stock Chinese instructions that come with your motorized bicycle kit; they're pretty bad and often flat-out wrong.  If you want a motorized bike that is reliable and not just some delicate toy, there are things you can do to get a professional motorized bike.

These aren't so much as instructions as they are commentary on the parts of a 2-stroke motorized bike; how they should be installed, how they can be replaced, and how they can be removed.  Assuming you have read the usual build instructions that come from kits and the internet, this should be more helpful.

Keep in mind that I am not a mechanical expert.  If you have any questions asking about how things work, I may not be able to answer you.  You will probably have more success asking the good folks at motorbicycling.com.

Fuel Tank

The stock tank that comes with the kits are actually pretty good.  They are referred to as either the "teardrop" tank or "peanut" tank.  When I say pretty good, I mean pretty good for what they are. When properly installed, they are pretty solid and professional.  It's only when they are not properly installed that they fail.

The weakest part of the fuel tank is the studs.  They are usually just spot welded to the tank itself, and while that usually isn't an issue, it becomes a problem when you over-tighten them and use rubber padding underneath the tank(so it doesn't slide around).  Using rubber padding is not a good idea!  It creates more pressure on the studs and, with normal engine vibration, small cracks will form around the weld joints on the studs which will cause fuel to leak!

The best way to avoid problems is to not use rubber padding but instead put some double-sided tape or some kind of sticky adhesive on the bottom so the tank doesn't slip around the frame.  Don't over-tighten, but tighten just enough to keep the tank firmly on the bike frame.  If you can, double-nut the nuts on the studs so that they don't loosen.  You can also use thread-locker instead.

If you get cracks in your fuel tank, DO NOT attempt to solder the cracks unless you have professional soldering experience.  I made the mistake of attempting this and I ended up getting lots of flux inside the tank which gunked up my carb for weeks since.

A common complaint with the stock tanks is that they often come with rust and metal debris inside!  Before you install your fuel tank, wash out and metal debris and clean out the rust using a rust removal formula such as CLR.

Fuel Line

Absolute junk!  It will last you maybe a few weeks before hardening, turning yellow, and chronically slipping off the petcock or the carb.  Instead of wasting your time with it, chuck it out and go buy some quality fuel line at an auto parts store.  Just bring your existing fuel line to an auto store and show it to them so you will get the right size fuel line.  Quality fuel line will last for years and will look good.

Fuel Petcock

Absolute junk!  Some people have no problems with it, but after my experience with 3 of them from different manufacturers, I believe it is probably one of the worst parts to come with the kits.  Throw it out!  Not only is it prone to leaking, not only does it have no hard on/off positions(WTF?), but it actually impedes fuel flow!  If you want to see for yourself, just open one up.  The mechanism inside is preposterous, even by Chinamart standards. 

The way I see it, you have the option of either buying a quality aftermarket petcock online or buy one from a hardware store; find a barbed brass nipple that will screw into your tank and will also fit the fuel line.  Don't worry too much if it doesn't have metric threads, because you can usually find one that fits into the tank anyway(at least I could).  Buy a fuel petcock from the store from the lawnmower section and place it inline in the fuel line.  Don't worry if it is plastic since they are meant to withstand gasoline, and the one I have has survived the E85 ethanol fuel that I use. 

If you want a more standard petcock, sickbikeparts.com sells a better petcock that it like the stock one but it has a nicer switch and hard on/off positions.

Fuel Filter

It's usually a simple paper filter that does it's job well, though there are better filters sold at hardware stores that have better fuel flow.

The filter is often installed in the wrong position; while either position won't effect actual performance, the best position is to have the paper cone on the inside facing upwards towards the fuel tank.  That way, you can see how much dirt has collected so you can know when to replace the filter.


The wires that come out of the engine and the CDI have some cheap brass connectors so they can be connected easily(hypothetically) by hand.  Cut those things off!  Instead, solder the correct wires together and cover the exposed wire with shrink tube.  This will create connections that are strong, durable, and pleasing to the eye.  Don't bother with electrical tape!  It will decay and become a mess when exposed to the elements.  When you are finished enclose the wires in some flex tubing to further protect the wire, prevent them from swinging around, and make the wiring look cleaner in general.  Lastly, use zip-ties to keep the wiring/flex-tube on the bike frame.


It's about as stripped-down of a CDI as you can possibly get.  Never the less, it does its job.

Don't bother mounting it on the bottom bar on the frame like the instructions say to, unless its your only option.  Even with rubber, it will end up slipping around from the vibration.  Instead, I prefer to mount the CDI on the bottom of the top bar on the frame(the same bar the fuel tank is usually mounted on).  I find that it is not only more secure but more convenient, and I don't get the CDI slipping around.

Spark Plug Wire/Boot

This is the wire that connects the spark plug to the CDI.  Unless it's permanently glued or welded into your CDI, throw it out!  You can get a superior car plug wire from an auto parts store(like NAPA).  You should do this because the stock wire starts to fall off the spark plug after a while and it also tends to fall out of the CDI.  Just cut off the end of the new plug wire that has the larger connector, and screw that end into the CDI.


The stock carburetor that comes with kits, known as the NT or NTTC carb, is actually a remarkably good carburetor and elegantly simple.  It can be identified by the circular black filter box on the back with the four small downward tubes.  It is inexpensive, simplistic, and easy to service.  While there are some carbs that reportedly provide better performance, such as the Dellorto or RT carb,  the stock carb provides good performance and is great for beginners and experts alike.  If you want to keep your motorized bike simple, the NT or NTTC carb will work great.  I have also found that it is incredibly durable; the plastic components can withstand ethanol fuel and the only parts prone to rusting are the bolts and the choke(both of which are easily replaceable).

The only downside to this carburetor is the filter and filter box.  They stink!  The foam filter inside the box won't do much to keep even large particles out of the engine.  Replace it with a piece of real filter foam from a hardware store, or if you want added performance, you can instead cover the filter box with layers of pantyhose(do this with caution).  The filter box can also be improved by cutting down the tubes to reduce resistance, and more holes can be drilled into the back to increase air flow.

Do not lose the idle screw!  If left unattended for too long, it will fall out from vibration during engine operation.  It is a special metric screw, and will be difficult to replace for some people.  To prevent it from getting lost, your can tie it to the frame of your bike.  It is also best to use a wingnut to keep the screw in the correct position so as to avoid tedious re-adjusting.

Idle screw with wingnut and rubber washer adaption.
If you want to replace your idle screw without paying ridiculous shipping costs for an OEM one, you could find a hardware store that sells metric screws/bolts/nuts.  Orchard Supply Hardware usually has a metric section.  You will need an M4 round head fastener with 4mm in length.  Be sure to round off the head of the screw with a file or a dremel tool to make it blunt.

The worst carburetor is the newer stock CNS carbs.  Granted, I have never used one, but it seems like more people report problems with it than with any of the other carbs.  While they can provide good performance, they are increasingly difficult to properly adjust.  On many of them, the idle control is super-glued in place!  However, there are also after-market performance CNS carbs that may be better.  I do not know if they are the same as the stock ones(they may not have the problems I have described).

One thing that is problematic with most carburetors are air leaks where the carb meets the intake neck of the engine.  This is commonly remedied using a rubber O union ring; the problem with the ring is that it relies on pressure between the neck of the carburetor and the intake neck, so if the carburetor becomes loose, the ring will lose effectiveness.  Another option is to create a seal by covering the intake neck with a small layer of silicone sealant.  The silicone will be more effective because it doesn't rely on pressure to create a seal, and it will help keep the carburetor in place.

Exhaust Pipe/Muffler

This is probably the most durable part of the bike.  It's made of thick stainless steel, so it is difficult to accidentally break.  But it is not without flaws!  While there are many stock mufflers, most of them have the end cap held in with a bolt that is prone to falling out, causing the end cap to fall out during your ride!  If you wish to do any modifications to your muffler, such as removing baffles or catalytic converters(highly recommended), do so as soon as possible and then have someone weld the cap on the muffler.  Just a small tack will do.  It will save you a lot of time and money trying to repair your end cap or replace it entirely!

If you want an end-cap that performs better and aesthetics don't matter to you as much, you can make your own replacement end-cap out of a large washer.  This home-made end cap will stay on properly, and it is also much easier to remove.

When fixing the muffler to the engine, make sure to use spring washers and double-nut!  Many people like using thread locker(loctite), but I have found that using quality spring washers from the hardware store works just as well and makes it easier to remove the muffler when necessary.

Some people prefer to secure the exhaust pipe to the bike frame; this is supposed to disperse engine vibration and add more support to the jug.  The benefit would be less vibration because of reduced resonation from the pipe, and the pipe mounting studs are less likely to break.  I have never tried this, but it seems plausible.  It can't hurt to try!

Throttle Control

The throttle is a piece of plastic, but it's not complete junk.  In my experience, the stock throttle works pretty well.  But alas, there is one serious flaw; the throttle is kept in place on the handlebar with a cheesy plastic peg!  It does not seem like most people have had an issue with this, but two weeks after building my bike, the plastic peg broke while I was riding, and I nearly lost control and almost crashed into a fence!  Even if most people don't face this issue, I recommend drilling through the base of the throttle(and the peg) and bolting the thing to the handlebar for peace of mind.

Some people have claimed that the kill switch that comes built-in to the stock throttles is faulty.  I have never had this problem, but since it seems likely, make sure to test your kill switch before going on a full ride.  If the kill switch fails, simply slow down and stall out the motor.

Clutch Lever

The clutch control is pretty good, but the button to keep the clutch in the disengaged position is sometimes not very effective.  Otherwise it's a basic brake-lever and not much can go wrong with it.

Better clutch levers can be found online.

Clutch Cable

If not properly lubricated, it can break over time.  This is very bad!  If your clutch cable breaks, you will not be able to disengage the clutch and the only way for you to stop is to use the kill switch and/or stall out!

If your clutch cable fails, or if you want a better one, you can get a replacement one from the Bell brake replacement kit for about $8 at Target or Wallmart.  Make sure to either use bike chain lubricant on it or periodically replace it when it starts to look worn.

Clutch Cable Lock

This is the little brass component that keeps the clutch cable attached to the clutch arm.  If it gets lost, it is very difficult to replace!  Even the most comprehensive motorized bicycle supply websites usually don't sell them separately.  Hardware stores also don't usually have replacements or good alternatives.

The best replacement is a 1/16'' ID wheel collar, which are sold at most hobby stores that sell RC and model airplanes.  They are cheap enough that you can buy a few for backup.

Mounting Hardware

Replace all the mounting hardware!  The studs, bolts, and nuts, all of it!  They are almost always made of low-grade Chinese steel, and whether you want to believe it or not, you WILL save your money and time by purchasing quality mounting hardware.  Stock studs and bolts end up failing after a while, and the threads are easily stripped!  If you don't heed my advice and instead use rubber padding on your mounting, you can count on your stock studs busting from the transfer of vibration.  If rubber padding to reduce vibration is a must, go with high-grade hardware.

The studs and nuts are all metric, so unless you want to re-tap the motor for non-metric threads, you should stick with metric hardware.

Sickbikeparts.com sells better quality mounting hardware that is the right size so you don't have to worry about measuring and jerryrigging new hardware.

Chain Tensioner/Idle Pulley

Almost universally hated, the stock chain tensioner is easily one of the worst parts to come with engine kits.  While I personally think that having a tensioner makes life easier, the stock one is merely held on to the frame with a clamp; this poses many problems such as loosening(thereby derailing the chain and causing the chain to bunch up in the drive gear cover) and even falling into the spokes!

The simplest remedy is to use rubber padding to keep it in place and use spring washers and double-nuts to prevent loosening.  This does not guarantee the absence of tensioner failure, but I have gotten away with this setup for a long time without any issue.  More importantly, it is best to prevent your rear sprocket from wobbling too much, as this can actually pull the tensioner into the spokes.

To make a better chain tensioner, you can take the existing one and add a spring between it and the bike frame.  That will help to keep it in place and prevent it from going into your spokes.


If possible, remove the white wire entirely.  Using it will do nothing but reduce power to your engine(slower bike!).

For a better way to use your engine to generate electricity for lights, you can purchase "generators" which are like a smaller magneto that fits next to your existing magneto.

For added protection for moisture and water, put some silicone sealant on the hole where the magneto wires go through.

Spark Plug

Most of the stock spark plugs are a no-name "LD" spark plug.  I have never had an issue with mine, but some have claimed to get bad stock plugs.  If you need a replacement, the NGK B6HS will work perfectly.  In fact, I would change to that spark plug anyway, just for the reliability.

Many have claimed superior engine performance with the use of Iridium NGK spark plugs, such as the NGK BPR6HIX or the BPR7HIX.

Engine Head

Come as either a straight head or a slant.  What that means is that a straight head has the spark plug pointing straight up, and a "slant" has the spark plug positioned in a slanted position.  The only advantage to the slant is that it adds a little bit of space to fit the engine in a small bike frame.  And it can make the plug closer to the plug wire if the CDI is far away.  Otherwise, there is no performance advantage and any claims of better performance with the straight head vs slant have so far been unfounded.

Chain Guard

I couldn't get mine to fit on my bike properly, so I left it off.  The main reason for it is to prevent oil/grease from flying up from the chain on to the rider during operation.  I use thick moly grease on my drive chain, and since leaving off the chain guard, I have never noticed a problem with getting grease on my clothes.


Most of the gaskets for your motor can be replaced with gasket material from any auto supply store, such as Autozone.  However, it will mean having to cut out the gaskets yourself.  In the future, I plan on providing some printable templates, but until then, you will have to replicate your existing used gaskets.  I have found that coating them with cooking oil, and them pressing them on the gasket material leaves a good imprint to go by.  You can also try tracing them with a fine-tip marker.  Cut out your gaskets using a razor blade or an X-acto knife.

BEWARE: Your base/cylinder/jug gasket MUST be the correct thickness, or the timing of your engine will be severely effected!  When replacing this gasket, your safest bet is to buy an OEM replacement.  Otherwise, measure the width of your existing gasket, and try to replicate that width in your new gasket.


The gears on the typical china girl engine are kept on their shafts with a tapered friction fit.  In other words, they are squeezed on to their shafts with a tight fit, and that's how they stay on.  Each of them has a small slot for a woodruff key, which keeps the gears from slipping on their shafts and they are meant to sheer when there is too much pressure to prevent damage to the gear teeth.

Because the gears are squeezed on, they cannot be unscrewed; a gear puller tool must be used, and they are usually included with each kit.

The gear puller works by screwing it into a gear, and then the smaller bolt piece screws through the center of the puller; turn it hard, and it will push the gear right off.  This puller tool can be used on all of the gears on the engine, including the small drive chain sprocket.

Be careful of stripping the threads on this tool!  The gear puller tool is cheap and screwing it in at an angle can damage the threads and make it inoperative!  When screwing it in to a gear, be sure to put a dab of grease or oil on the threads to provide some lubrication, and make sure you are screwing the tool in straight.  If the tool looks like it is going in at an angle, don't force it!  Unscrew it gently and try again.

When removing gears, you MUST use the puller!  I have tried removing gears on my motor in the past(because my puller was stripped) using screwdrivers, pry bars, etc, with no success and I have even damaged my crank case with it.  If you don't have a puller, or if your current puller is stripped, you are better off buying a new puller off the internet.  There are no shortcuts for this!  Many vendors sell them, and if you plan on taking your engine apart or adding a centrifugal clutch, you will need the puller.  I purchased mine from boygofast on eBay, and it arrived in the mail in just 2 days!


  1. So basically, most of the engine components you say should be discarded and replaced? What's the point in buying this kit?

    1. Ok, i bought an eBay kit for 140 bucks and was a damn good kit. Only issues I had was the muffler threads stripping. Otherwise, it's pretty reliable. I highly recommend when you buy this kit, use a throttle handle with something stronger than the cheap toy grade plastic thing that the throttle cable sits in. Replace with something stronger or don't abuse it like I did. Besides that, I never had any issues mechanically. I ran it flat out at over 30 mph in stick form and takes ruts and bumps real well. Be warned that if you don't install the brakes right, you will have no brakes and since the weight is aimed towards the back of the bike, get a new tire that's got longer wear, and an inner tube.

    2. I have the same problem with the muffler bolt what can i do to fix it thanks $dustin roy$

  2. In my opinion, there isn't much point in buying the kits. If someone just wants to build a toy they'll only ride every once in a while, then the kit may be acceptable(for a while).

    Otherwise, the kits are mostly a rip-off with a hint of false advertising; they're sold largely on the idea that you can "install and ride in a few hours!" That's probably the biggest lie by kit manufacturers, with the term "80 cc" in close second.

    On the other hand, sometimes it's cheaper to buy one of the kits than to buy the motor by itself. Not always, but sometimes the kit is a better deal.

    In my opinion, the good parts of a kit are:

    - Engine
    - Carburetor
    - Rear wheel sprocket
    - Drive chain
    - CDI(works okay but could be better, and the wire & boot are terrible)
    - Muffler(with the exception of the end-cap)

    The rest is mostly garbage that would be worth replacing.

    Aftermarket parts aren't that difficult to find, so buying an engine, cleaning it up, and installing quality aftermarket parts is the way to go.

    1. I know where your coming from, I just got one a week ago and it was missing the master link so I got one from a bike shop, the clutch was way over tight, the skrews and bolts a made of shit you are 100% right most of the components are dog shit.

    2. I had no issues with mine except the threads that hold the studs for the muffler failed and the plastic throttle handle.

    3. Right on "Admin". The entire package is a scam. There are no reliable upgrades either. I recommend you junk the entire package and pedal your bicycle or buy a motorcycle. So, never fear the Chinese military, everything they build will self destruct.

    4. These are fun to build and tinker with, and constant tuning, adjusting/tightening/replacing are part of the program. If you do this you may rely on it for short trips around town, but fir the money spent you would be better off buying a pre-built moped for a daily driver if that's what you are looking for. I wholeheartedly agree with Wagon Road, and have thought the same. I serve in US Army and no longer too concerned about losing a war with China. Their equipment won't last-will always fail and be in a state of disrepair. Look at N Korea's failed middle launches. Missiles and machinery/controls they use come from China-nuf. Said.

    5. We've built two of these from $130 kits bought on eBay. I have almost 200 motorized miles on my mountain bike and with the exception of the crap fuel line and filter I had to replace and the gas cap gasket, everything else has been standard maintenance (ie lube, retightening, etc). I take it on and off road in the desert. My son-in-law has similar miles on his. The biggest issue he had was with his chain. After two breakages early on, we installed a better product and have had no issues since. These things are great fun and one advantage they have over a motorcycle, is that if they break down, you can pedal them home. Another advantage is that around here (Henderson Nevada) the cops don't give you a second glance when they see you. To view some pics and vids from our outings, check this out: https://www.facebook.com/PoweredBiking/

  3. Really i just want to give you a quick heads up. Thanks for posting such type of great information. We have also a one of custom bike that we are donating part of proceeds to the Jeans for Justice Cause. Call us for more information.

    Motorized bike builder

  4. In general I agree with the article, however I had some comments to make:

    My fuel valve is quite good; I only worry about rusting in the long run.
    there's absolutely no decrease in fuel flow, an engine like a 2 stroke needs to sip fuel at drops pace, so the flow is more than good enough.

    Concerning the installation of the fuel filter:
    while sediment always falls, when installing the fuelfilter upside down (cone pointing up), there is a possibility for debris to skip between the paper walls at the top of the filter (bottom if mounted upside down), and the plastic casing. So if it's a stock filter, I'd install it normally.

    The CDI:
    I have a 29" cruiser bike, and can not mount it with the stock brackets on the vertical bar (bar too wide), nor on the vertical bar under the seat (air filter in the way).
    Only place it fitted on my bike, was under the air filter, at the bottom of the vertical bar.

    Spark plug wire:
    The spark plug wire is soldered and molten into the CDI, so no way to get rid of it, unless you buy a new cdi.
    to me, the cable looks to be quite ok, and not in for replacement!

    Filter foam:
    The filter foam is supposed to be a wet foam. you have to drench it in oil, and squeeze it out. When the oil residue is left in the filter, it will work quite fine.

    The reason the air filter has ports downward, is because of rain.
    Under normal circumstances, the little rain entering the filter while riding, won't damage your engine, however, if you have it parked in the rain, there is a possibility that a more than normal amount of water enters your engine.
    If you do drill holes in the side, and leave the bike outside, make sure you got some sort of cap protecting the holes from rainwater to enter in.

    Idle adjustment screw, use a tightening nut.
    Home Depot also stores all kinds of metric screws (usually $0.5 for 4 screws or so).

    Exhaust: Locktite is a good product, however many locktite clones are not. Even if they say 'high heat' (usually the white ones), they will get brown, and inevitably harden like glass, and fall off the thread. If locktite is too expensive, just double nut it.

    If the clutch button (to keep clutch disengaged) is not very effective, you can adjust the cable tension.

    Clutch Cable Lock:
    Check your local home depot store, they always should have standard steel metric bolts and nuts available; if not, you can order them there, or on Amazon, for $20/ a few 100 screws pack of various sizes.

    Studs looked fine on mine. Just be careful not to overtighten, and there should be no problemo!

    Spark plug:
    Usually 'bad spark plugs', are 'bad', because the center pin, made out of lower quality steel, tends to melt over time, and the tolerance increases.
    Usually the only maintenance they need, is every 1000-2000 miles they need to be re-gapped
    Irridium spark plugs may never need re-gapping, over the course of the engine's lifetime.

    Chain guard didn't fit with me either. I had to cut away part of the rear fender to get it fitted.

    You can remove the front sprocket with thin pliers, or crocodile pliers (just apply even pressure on left and right, or top and bottom of the sprocket, as you gently pull them out).

    The stock 41T rear sprocket allows for good acceleration (on par with fast cyclists, or 50cc mopeds or scooters), but generally low speed.
    You can increase MPG by installing a smaller rear sprocket. Some people, who are not into racing, but use the bike mainly to ride on country or suburban roads, may prefer a 38 or 36T sprocket; for greater gas mileage, lower engine wear and temperatures, and less vibration.
    I am currently installing a 32T on my bike, and will see how it will work out!

    1. Check out these tanks

    2. Check out these tanks

    3. Thank you for your all of your great information. Apparently some spark plug wires can be unscrewed...



  5. used mine with stock equipment and rode for avor 1k miles, atleast 1/3rd of them were highway use in the bike lane full throttle the whole time. it all depends on your luck and your attention to maintenance, take good care of it and it will run for ever

    1. Me too until it got stolen 3 months after

  6. I installed a 80cc on my MT . Bike & love it didn't take long to install, I used a 3/8 impact on the rear sproket so that spead thingss up a little, but ne evening I got rearend by a Car that was going 45mpg & I was just taking off,
    a few weeks after I got out of the Hospital I went & got my Bike back, It bent the back rim a little, & the handle bars were crooked rip the seat a bit & knocked some Nuts loose over-all it wasn't as bad as I expected(the Bike) I replaced a Head stud...

    1. yeah, I have seen someone on a bike get reared by a car in a video. I guess the driver wasn't paying attention, not really sure. The driver just kept going like the bike wasn't even there. I have heard riders say that it is best to act like a regular bike and stick to bike paths and sidewalks most of the time while riding. I am definitely going to stick to that advice since FL drivers are so bad.

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  11. I replaced my stock carb with one made for a Partner K700 concrete saw. Major improvement!

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  18. Best material to make exhaust gaskets out of?

  19. Can anyone tell me what size nuts are needed for the 3L replacement gas tanks?

  20. We just got 2 of these engines for our bikes and wanted to say thank you so much for the info you posted. It will save us a lot of pain and misery! Thank you so much for sharing. SeaGypsy

    1. Hey man, I had a bike and put an eBay motor on it. Performance is ok, but it was reliable. I put more miles on it than the Chinese minibike which I blew up and a 4 wheeler with a finally dead engine. My bike got stolen 3 months ago

  21. I love motorized bikes and I will for life. Note that they are reliable machines (mine's was 140 bucks on eBay and took a whole week to finish since it was my first time) I rode it all summer. All I had to replace was the throttle handle as it broke and had to tighten the exhaust almost everyday since the threads were stripped. Got stolen in August especially if you live in a condo. Mine also was double locked (not a steel ulock)

  22. im 14, just got a 4-stroke 50cc bike, love it, great for me to get around, school, town, skatepark etc... good for people my age, idk about using it in place of a car tho

  23. I lost my muffler the first month now trying to figure out how to replace it without buying a new one cause the bolts are stripped and the same thing will happen to the next muffler and suggestions will be greatly appreciated

    1. You can reply to me at Bigpapa921@gmail.com please help I'm stuck

    2. I almost lost my muffler shortly after putting my bike together due to nit using loctite and vibration... i double nutted the muffler on after that and have had no problems since

    3. I almost lost my muffler shortly after putting my bike together due to nit using loctite and vibration... i double nutted the muffler on after that and have had no problems since

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  32. I have the Keihin clone carb on my GT80 stage 1 66cc bicycle engine. I'm operating at altitudes of 7000 to 9000 ft. I have the carb needle washer on the top ring and the engine still 4 strokes. Clearly, I need a smaller needle jet and main jet. My google searches can find no diagrams of this carb and no supplier of jets.

  33. I have the Keihin clone carb on my GT80 stage 1 66cc bicycle engine. I'm operating at altitudes of 7000 to 9000 ft. I have the carb needle washer on the top ring and the engine still 4 strokes. Clearly, I need a smaller needle jet and main jet. My google searches can find no diagrams of this carb and no supplier of jets.

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  35. Im wondering ive got two different types. A flying horse silver angle and a raw. Both 60 cc. With a replacement flying horse crank case. For giggles. Curious if i could transfer all the raw parts, mostly performance bits, over to the new crank case, and bring the in case magneto and plug setup over from the flying horse? And keep a solid engine running as well as easier to water proof?

  36. And remember to always wear your helmet and carry a tool kit. Don't ride one of these without a tool kit handy and a helmet heady.

  37. And remember to always wear your helmet and carry a tool kit. Don't ride one of these without a tool kit handy and a helmet heady.

  38. I operate at 7000 ft altitude, and must lean out the Keihin carb clone on Mt GT80 stage 1 66cc engine. Main jets and slow jets are available at jetsrus.com. Also, I have installed a 56 tooth rear sprocket on a magnet wheel, from custommotoredbicycles.com

  39. can someone tell me why gas come out my tank when i idol

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  45. Oh man, do I have stories. I'm building my second bike in the next week and just going over some hints and tips. My first bike was an Electra beach cruiser, the frame didn't run parallel to the mounting bracket and broke the studs on the bottom of the engine. I was going about 25 mph and the back wheel locked up, i skidded to a stop in the middle of nowhere (uber saved me) this bent my chain so after ordering a replacement and fabricating a new mounting bracket I took it for a test ride and she flew again, until my chain flew off since I clipped the master link on backwards lol. My carburetor would leak if I didn't turn off the fuel flow, this would drip onto the clutch cover and eventually ate away the gasket and drenched my clutch pads in oil making the bike impossible to start because the clutch would slip. I rode off the road once and went for a bumpy ride down a ditch, after that my gas tank started leaking and my choke would lift itself up to half choke during operation. My spark plug not exploded one day causing an arc I could hear as an annoying tap zap sound until I replaced it with an auto grade one, it does just unscrew from the cdi. Fun stuff

  46. Similar story on my 66cc chinese 2 stroke. I simply do not trust the drive chain to stay on track, so I have a 56 tooth rear sprocket on a mag wheel, and never go above 15 mph, so that a chain derailment doesn't send me into a locked wheel crash. Yeah, the fuel peacock leaks. The engine vibration numbs my butt. It's a work in progress, a task which will never have an end. I'll fiddle with it on and off, then one day just haul the bike to the junk yard.

    1. My buddy drilled a hole through the bike frame and mounted the engine directly to it. No vibration at all. The chain stays on without much help if the drive sprocket and rear sprocket are lined up close enough. Eliminating the pulley between these two points is ideal if possible

    2. @ Jarrett: If you're referring to the chain tensioner between the driver and the driven sprockets, you definitely DO NOT want to remove that. Even in the most perfectly aligned PT (power transmission) systems, a tensioner is good to have because roller chain stretches. And as it stretches, a few things happen - you lose horsepower, wear your sprockets quicker and more importantly, the chance of the chain coming of the sprocket and/or breaking gets greater. The tensioner helps keep that from happening...for awhile.

    3. I agree, even when i got the chain to stretch where it didn't need a pulley i still had it in place


  47. تعتبر  ركن نجد افضل شركة تنظيف منازل بالرياض حيث تعتمد تقنيات التنظيف لدينا علي استخدام التقنية الحديثة متمثلة في استخدام ماكينات تنظيف الارضيات وكذلك احدث الات تنظيف واجهات المنازل و شركة تنظيف شقق بالرياض وماكينات جلي وتلميع حديثة بالاضافة الى مهارة وخبرة كبيرة لموظفي الشركة في تنظيف المنازل كافضل شركة تنظيف منازل بالرياض أذا كنتى تعانى من أعمال التنظيف االممله والصعبه فشركة ركن نجد توفر عليكى الوقت والمجهود حيث تقوم شركة تنظيف شقق بالرياض بتقديم الخدمه بجوده ودقه عاليه تعيد منزلك الى جماله مهما كان حجمه أو شكله .
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  50. Good post I am finishing my first (and last) build of one of these for a friend. About 30 solid hours of labor over 3 weeks and not done yet. Walmart Hyper beach cruiser and $120 ebay kit. Rear sprocket had massive run out we eventually popped $36 more for a 3 pc aluminum mount that clamps on the hub, spins true now. These kits are just unsafe as hell. Not one step came without modification or fabrication.

  51. I finally got my GT80 engine with Keihn carb clone running OK. However I always tell my wife where I'm going and the route I'm taking.The loading ramp is in my truck and I carry my cell phone

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  54. Everytime i ride my 2 stroke 80cc on roadmaster ground assault. Evertime i hit a bump or lip on entrance to a driveway it makes my back tire go flat every time.why .my bike goes 30 to 40 mph.im going 10 to 15mph when i hit the curb. How can i fix it.

  55. Everytime i ride my 2 stroke 80cc on roadmaster ground assault. Evertime i hit a bump or lip on entrance to a driveway it makes my back tire go flat every time.why .my bike goes 30 to 40 mph.im going 10 to 15mph when i hit the curb. How can i fix it.

  56. Everytime i ride my 2 stroke 80cc on roadmaster ground assault. Evertime i hit a bump or lip on entrance to a driveway it makes my back tire go flat every time.why .my bike goes 30 to 40 mph.im going 10 to 15mph when i hit the curb. How can i fix it.

  57. Everytime i ride my 2 stroke 80cc on roadmaster ground assault. Evertime i hit a bump or lip on entrance to a driveway it makes my back tire go flat every time.why .my bike goes 30 to 40 mph.im going 10 to 15mph when i hit the curb. How can i fix it.

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  59. i never had a probem with my first one but the second one is diferant but did have to make the things work on the first one but i think the things are a good deal but double nut everthing that is the key

  60. Good post!The best way to avoid problems is to not use rubber padding but instead put some double-sided tape or some kind of sticky adhesive on the bottom.
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  61. This comment has been removed by the author.